Super Trucks: Full sized vans, SUVs, Suburbans, and full sized pick ups, ½ ton up to 1 ton, 2 wheel drive only. No Nostalgia built UAVs, mini vans, compact trucks and SUVs, or Commercial Chassis Vehicles!! V8 Dakotas and Durangos okay.

Reinforcements:

• Door bars either inside or outside are encouraged & may be bolted using as many ½” diameter bolts with 2” outer diameter washers as necessary or by welding.
  
• External door bars must be mounted no more than 6” in front of front door seam back to the rear axle centerline. External door bars must not protrude away from body of car more than 2” & have no sharp edges (no can openers).
  

• You may run a chain or wire (#9 wire or 3/8” chain max) from rear frame rail to rear frame rail behind the rear humps. No strapping of any kind may be used.
  
• Do not shape your frame. Do not sharpen or square the edges of the frame. The frame humps above the rear tires may be beat inward toward center of car from either side a maximum of 8” each.
  

• Do not repair rusted out frames. Pick a better truck.
  

• Rusted out floor pans may be repaired where components will be mounted or for driver’s safety, sheet metal only. You may not patch clean solid floors. Rivets or bolts only, not welded.
  
• You may smash inner and outer door skins (includes tailgate) together and weld TOP SEAM ONLY. NO ADDED MATERIAL MAY BE USED.
  
• You may add 2 loops of #9 wire, four strands per loop in any window opening. This wire may go to or around the frame. SUVs and VANS may not use wire in any window past 2nd row of seats. Ex: no wire in tailgate window and large rear side windows of K5 Blazers, Suburbans, Broncos, Excursions, Exhibitions, Ram Chargers, Conversion or passenger vans, etc…)
  
• Distributor protectors are allowed, attached to engine and transmission only, and must not contact cage before, during, or after event. If you run a distributor protector do not mount your dash bar closer than 5” behind rear most part of cowl/firewall. Distributor protectors may not be welded, bolted or chained to body, hood or frame. Outer dimensions of the distributor protector must not exceed the center of the valve covers on the sides and go no father forward than the water pump. Cutting a hole in the firewall for distributor access is allowed. Distributor protectors are allowed, but must not keep the engine/front end from bending, and must be 1” or more away from the firewall at the start of the derby.
  
• The gas tank protector is mandatory. It must be no wider than frame rails, extend no farther than rear axle centerline, AND MUST NOT CONTACT ANY SIDE SHEET METAL (bedside or wheel wells). IT MUST RUN STRAIGHT BACK, BUT ONLY IN THE CENTER OF THE VEHICLE. It may only be attached to seat bar and no other part of cage.
  
• No doubling of body panels.
  
• No welding core supports.
  
• Fenders, quarter panels, wheel wells, and bumper ends may be trimmed for wheel clearance. Fenders, quarter panels, and wheel wells may be screwed or bolted back together if trimmed, using 3/8 screws/bolts (no limit to the number you can use) and must not protrude away from body more than 1/4”.
  
• No rear window bars allowe
  

• Engine protectors are allowed, but must be similar to the BRP product shown below. I can’t tell you who you have to buy your stuff from, but this product represents the absolute MAXIMUM engine protector allowed.
  

Make sure yours is built like this or LESS.

• No radiator frames. The extent of an allowable type of radiator protector is type of steel screen that can be folded over the top of the radiator and fastened to the radiator only; it is not to be fastened to the core support or frame. Its purpose is to keep the radiator free from packed mud and deflect rocks, not Buicks. If we can’t twist it by hand, it’s a reinforcement, and not legal.
  
• If your truck has a C channel style frame, you may box the frame from the center of the front axle to the back side of front bumper. There must be a minimum of one 1” inspection hole in the added boxed piece for inspection. DO NOT FILL THE FRAME SOLID.
  

Interior

• Remove all the carpet and plastic trim, including padding under the carpet and headliner. Removal of anything that can burn (not including seats and seat belts) is highly recommended. Removal of the dashboard is optional.
  
• Padding of driver door and driver’s door safety bar is recommended.
  
• All drivers’ compartments must be clean of any trash, broken glass or anything that could be a projectile.
  
  • Front seats must be reinforced by installing a seat bar behind and up against the front seat. Seat bars must be welded in place, from the left to the right side of the car. This bar is to be used to keep the seat from collapsing and injuring the driver. It must not be used to overly strengthen the vehicle. It is not to be fastened to the frame of a car in the nostalgia & mini truck classes
    

Engine, Transmission, Axles, and Wheels

• You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine within reason. Holes in fire wall must have a cover to protect driver from fluid spray or fire flash. NO EXCEPTIONS!
  
• You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times during the event.
  
• No starting fluid will be allowed.
  
• There must be 12x12 inch opening cut in hood in case of a fire
  
• If you are swapping engines: on V-block motors, the #1 spark plug must be in line with or in front of the upper ball joint. On inline motors, the #2 spark plug must be in line with or in front of the upper ball joint.
  
• Any exhaust header may be used, and may exit hood, as long as it points away from driver compartment.
  
• Home made transmission cross members, shifters and shifter linkage, and transmission mounts are okay, but must not strengthen the frame.
  
• Valve stem protectors are okay
  
• Wheel weights must be removed
  
• Any drive shaft and u-joint can be used. Telescoping drive shafts are okay.
  
• Engine oil and transmission oil coolers are allowed, but must be mounted either in engine bay or rear seat area of driver’s compartment. If coolers are located in driver’s compartment, they must have a splash shield. Electric fans are allowed.
  
• Welded or spooled rear ends are allowed. Any gear ratio is acceptable. Rear end braces allowed, but may serve no purpose than to strengthen the rear axle housing. They may not extend more than 6” from rear end and may not be higher than the top of the rear axle housing
  
• Do not convert a coil spring set up to leaf springs or vice versa.
  
• Welded rims okay, but must meet approval of DhR officials.
  
• Solid, water filled, tubed tires, and doubled tires are allowed.
  
• No “duallies”.
  

Suspension and Steering

• Any springs can be used in any truck (leafs must remain leafs, coils must remain coils. Leaf springs must be of stock-type material and must taper largest to smallest (each leaf 4” smaller than the next largest – 2” per side), with only one main leaf. Leaf springs must be made of spring material, no sheet metal or flat stock. No welding of leafs. Max 9 leafs per side. No flat stacking your leafs. No leafs on top of main leaf.
  

• Do not double stack leafs. Do not invert leaf springs. Leaf springs must be mounted in OEM stock position, no moving shackles.
  
• ALL VEHICLES MUST HAVE WORKING BRAKES!
  
• Home-made spring shackles are allowed, but must not be welded to the frame (bolted only) and must be made of stock-type material. Springs must be mounted with stock-type equipment and in stock location. Shackles must not reinforce frame in any way or they will be cut.
  
• Leaf spring clamps may be replaced if defective. Home made spring clamps are allowed, but must not exceed 3 clamps in front of and 3 clamps behind axle per side. Home made spring clamps must not use material thicker than 1/8”, no wider than 1”, and use bolts no wider than 3/8” o.d.
  
• Any steering shaft may be used in any car. Home made steering shafts are okay.
  
• Welded, reinforced, or home made tie rod ends, homemade trailing arms, and boxed trailing arms are okay.
  
• Stiff/locked suspension IS allowed.
  
• You may convert a 2 wheel drive a-arm style or King Pin style front axle to a leaf spring solid differential style front axle using O.E.M. automotive grade parts (no commercial grade parts). Leaf spring shackles must be bolted on (not welded on) and conversion must not reinforce the frame. See leaf spring configuration in general build rules.
  

Electrical System

• TWO automotive batteries may be used and must be VERY SECURELY mounted and covered in passenger floorboards (plastic milk crates, battery boxes, wood crates work well. Metal doesn’t.)
  
  

Transmissions and Coolers

• Transmission coolers will be allowed, BUT MUST HAVE A SPLASH SHIELD TO PROTECT THE DRIVER.
  
• Metal or steel braided line must be used. Rubber lines must be double clamped and SLEEVED WITH HEATER HOSE OR SIMILAR MATERIAL. No fuel or low pressure line may be used.
  
• Any transmission cooler that has been relocated to the inside of the car must be enclosed or covered.
  
  

Overall safety will be determined by officials at time of inspection.

Body and Frame

FRAME REPAIRS:

• You may fix a broken factory weld or PATCH a pinched REAR frame arch, but patches must not use any material thicker than factory stock or excessive weld. Frame patches may overlap original frame ¼ inch on any side of patch. Also, patches must have a ½ inch hole drilled in it for inspection. Broken frame seam welds may be re-welded no stronger than stock, using no additional material. Front frame seams MAY be welded from the firewall to the engine side of the radiator core support (do not weld the core support to the frame!) on the TOP of the frame only, using no additional material. Only one bead of weld allowed. DO NOT PLATE OR FILL YOUR FRAME SEAMS. NO EXCEPTIONS!
  
• You may re-stub front frame sections. The only acceptable way to do this is to cut off the frame under the driver’s seat, before transmission cross member and behind crush box/front frame arch, and weld on a new frame section. You may weld the cut and then weld a strap 1/8” thick, 1” wide over the cut, having a ¼” overlap on either side of the cut. No additional reinforcements of the frame allowed. Officials will inspect the frame!
  
• Two holes at least 6” each in diameter must be cut in hood on either side of carburetor for fire extinguisher access. Hood inner and outer sections may be screwed or bolted back together using screws/bolts no more than 5/16” o.d. and no longer than 1”. Max 8 bolts/screws per hole.
  
• All trailer hitches must be completely removed.
  

BODY & FRAME continued:

• Weld zone: 6” in front of front door seams to rear axle center line. This area defines where the majority of the welding may be done on a vehicle. Any welding outside of this area is spelled out clearly in these rules. If you are not clear on what is allowed – inside or out of weld zone, call DhR before you do it, or be prepared to cut it out on race day if it doesn’t pass tech.
  
• No painting, buffing, oiling, or undercoating of frames. No questions asked, you won’t be teched. You won’t be allowed to run. Period.
  
• No modifying wheel base!
  
• No body seam welding allowed inside or out, unless specified
  
• The only welding allowed is what is stated in these rules. If you want to weld it and it’s not spelled out here, call or email us first!
  
• SEDAGONS ARE ALLOWED! Roofs may not be smashed down farther than the lower window line. Do not smash lower window line down – leave it at factory height. Sedagons must have an inspection hole 12”x 12” cut in roof for inspection. Do not weld your roof to the quarter panel.
  
• Pickup trucks may not fold sides of bed down on top of bed. They must remain in the upright position. If your vehicle is a pre-ran, get the quarters and tailgate upright. If they are deemed too low, you will not run. No turtle-backing/wedging your trunk/bed/cargo area.
  
• Bulkheads of bed (front wall) may not be removed and must stay in original configuration in relationship to other 3 sides of bed. Do not alter it!
  
• Frames and ca/bodies must match (make, model and year must agree). In other words, no 72 Ford Pick Up frames under an 87 Chevy pick up cab/body. For pickups, the body will be defined as the cab itself. Bed and fenders may be replaced as a complete assembly (no mix and match) as needed. We realize it may not be feasible to find the specific bed for your vintage truck.
  
• No filling frame with material to strengthen it (outside the weld zones). Frames must remain factory stock (do not relocate frame rails – must remain in stock configuration). No exceptions. Note: weld zones are defined as rear axle center line to front axle center line. Anyone caught with altered fre will be barred from competition for 1 year, forfeit any prize money, and lose their entry fee.
  
• Truck frames may be reinforced from rear of front A-arms to the center of the rear axle for drivers’ protection…………………………………………………………………..
  

• TAILGATES ON WAGONS, TRUCKS AND SUVs, AND DOORS OF VANS. You may weld 5” on, 5” off 2” x 1/8” strap. Strap must not exceed 5” per section. If you choose not to weld, you may secure with 4(four) 1” bolts (two 6” x 1/4” washers per bolt) OR you may weld four 5” sections of angle iron to the tailgate and quarter panels and fasten together using one 1” bolt per section of angle iron. Pick one option only. Use only one method of securing trunk or tailgate. NO mix & match.
  
• HOODS: must be secured by either 2 lengths of max. 1” threaded rod with no more than 6 washers (max. 6” diameter max 1/4” thick) per rod & 8 bolts (max. 1” in diameter) with washers (6” outer diameter max), OR by 8 lengths of chain, cable, or #9 wire. NO mix & match. If you use chain, wire or cable, no bolts. If you use bolts, no wire, cable, or chain. NO WELDING of hood allowed. The front threaded rods that go through the core support may be sleeved with pipe between the frame and core support. Pipe must be free floating.
  
• Body biscuits may be removed. Four (4) total additional body mounts may be added in the location of your choice. Added body mounts must be painted for identification. Original body mounts may be replaced with up to 1” all thread & can have max. two 6” outer diameter washers. Body bolts may not exceed 1” max diameter & may not be used as addition threaded rod from frame to top of roof, trunk or hood
  
• Threaded rod used to secure hoods & trunks/tailgates do not have to go through body mounts. Additional holes may be cut for threaded rod. If your rod does not go through an existing body mount, it will count as one of your 4 additional mounts.
  
• All glass (windshield optional) chrome, lights, reflectors, & plastic must be removed from exterior of vehicle before arriving at track. This includes door handles, antennas, grille, headlights, license plates & screws, taillights, turn signals, hood ornaments, & anything else that could fly off during the event.
  

BODY & FRAME continued:

• Sponsor’s signs may be welded or VERY SECURELY BOLTED (we will check them!) to the roofs of the vehicles.
  
• A chain or bar must be attached from firewall (not hood) to roof, preventing hood from entering driver’s compartment if windshield is removed.
  
• All carpeting & rear seat(s) must be removed, both top & bottom sections. Suburbans, Vans, and SUVs must have all rear decking removed & be empty to the floorboards.
  
• Doors may be welded, chained, or wired shut. No cable, rope, or seat belts may be used.
  
• Cabs may be welded to the box or bolted to the box in 4 locations, 1” bolts with 6” washers. Beds may be slid forward to contact the back of the cab.
  
• Tailgates must remain in stock location and may not be lowered.
  

Fuel System

• Fuel tank should be relocated to the bed of the truck against the front of the box
  

Bumpers

• Front bumpers must be stock or D.E.C. replacement. However, due to the rising costs of bumpers, you are allowed to re-enforce the bumper on the inside or backside between the shock mounts. This re-enforcement must be no larger than 6inch wide by 1/2 inch thick and may not be mounted no wider than 1/4inch past the outer wall of the frame. Do not re-enforce the front of the bumper or the ends outside the shock mounting area. Bumper re-enforcement may not be done in anyway to stop frame bending. Bumper must appear stock. Bumpers used on the rear of vehicle may not have any reinforcements of any kind. If you choose to run a front bumper on the rear of your car, you may not reinforce it.
  
• On Chrysler pointy bumpers (70s New Yorker/ Imperial) or any bumper that does not have a flat backing you may plate the space between the front bumper and the horizontal reinforcement using maximum 1/4“ thick plate. If your bumper doesn’t have a horizontal reinforcement (Monte, Cutlass, etc…) you may plate horizontally back to the fartherst rearward part of the bumper. Do not weld the plate to anything other than the bumper and the horizontal reinforcement.
  
• Bumpers & brackets must be mounted in stock location (on frame).
  
• All bumper brackets and shocks must be OEM automotive grade material.
  
• No bumper chrome may be welded to the body
  
• Front bumper brackets/shocks may be welded no more than 4” behind the core support and rear brackets may not be welded no more than 4” onto frame rails.
  

• Bumpers may be welded directly onto frame. Do not add additional material to assembly. Weld stock pieces to stock pieces only. No filler material allowed.
  

• You may weld a 2” by 6” long x ¼ FLAT strap from bumper to frame. This must be a one piece strap and must not run at an angle in any way. Welding it to the flat top part of the bumper and frame is recommended. One pass of weld only.
  
  • Bumpers may also be wired to core support using 4 loops of #9 wire in two locations, outboard of radiator.
    

• You may weld bumper chrome to backing, using no additional material other than the weld itself. Bumper ends must be open. Officials must be able to clearly see inside.
  
• YOU MAY REPLACE THE REAR BUMPER WITH A STEEL SQUARE TUBE 4” DIAMETER, ¼” MAX THICKNESS.
  

Cage

• A BOX-TYPE CAGE IS THE MINIMUM REQUIREMENT & must be built inside the cab of the UAV for driver’s safety (4" diameter max. pipe size). Cage should be connected to the frame of the truck forward of driver (no farther forward than the accelerator pedal), but may not be attached to firewall.  No extensions or down bars are allowed to be attached to front or rear frame arches. Any down bars are to be welded to the flat part of the frame only. No exceptions. NO FORM OF KICKER ALLOWED!!
  

Cage continued:

• Cage must not extend more than 18” past the back of the driver’s seat. Any UAV with an inadequate cage will not be allowed to compete. Padding is highly recommended on this cage. It is recommended that all cages must have 2 “squeeze bars” welded from left side of cage to right side of cage behind the driver’s seat (1 bar 1 foot above the floor & the second 6-8 inches above that.
  
• Halo bars must be vertical and not at an angle. Halo bars may not exceed 6” outer diameter. Halo bars must attach to the seat bar.
  
• No kickers from halo bar.
  
  

Cooling System
Radibarrels may be used instead of a radiator. Radibarrels must hold no more than 8.5 gallons, have a pressure release valve to blow off steam, be no more than 4" thick, 31" long x 16-1/2 tall or smaller, be constructed of 1/8” thick steel or aluminum only. have two mounting brackets with no more than 3 mounting bolt holes in each, and a radiator cap. This is a DERBYPROFAB example:



.

• Radibarrels must be bolted, strapped or wired to core support, and may not be attatched to the frame in any way. Radibarrels may not reinforce the car in any way.
  
• Engine and radiator/radibarrel must be flushed free of anti-freeze. Water only! Please flush coolant before arriving to the track.
  
• Electric fans are allowed.
  
• Any automotive radiator may be used, but must be mounted in stock position. Note: radibarrels allowed in Fair Class (not minis or Nostalgia Truck) and Super Truck Class only.
  
• If you choose to compete without a radiator/radibarrel, the mechanical fan must be removed. No reserve tanks are allowed. Driver must compete with the water that is in the engine block only, or run dry block.
  
• Heater cores may remain in stock position, but removal is strongly recommended. No excessive radiator or heater hose lengths for additional coolant allowed
  
• No radiator frames.