NOSTALGIA FULL SIZE: Any 1978 and newer rear wheel drive GM, 1979 and newer front wheel drive GM, 1980 or newer rear drive FORD and/or Mopar, 105” or larger wheel base, stone stock build

MINI TRUCKS: 4 or 6 cyl compact truck, suv, or minivan, under ½ ton 1980 or newer, 2 wheel drive, 4 wheel drive, or all wheel drive okay.

Body and Frame

• Weld zone: 6” in front of front door seams to rear axle center line. This area defines where the majority of the welding may be done on a vehicle. Any welding outside of this area is spelled out clearly in these rules. If you are not clear on what is allowed – inside or out of weld zone, call DhR before you do it, or be prepared to cut it out on race day if it doesn’t pass tech.
  
• No turtle-backing/wedging your trunk.
  
• No painting, buffing, oiling, or undercoating of frames. No questions asked, you won’t be teched. You won’t be allowed to run. Period.
  
• No modifying wheel base!
  
• No body seam welding allowed inside or out, unless specified
  
• The only welding allowed is what is stated in these rules. If you want to weld it and it’s not spelled out here, call or email us first!
  
• Frames and bodies must match. Bodies must remain on the same year frame as the body. No cradle or watts link conversions on Ford products. No plating of frames whatsoever. Body mounts must remain strictly stock. Don’t repair/replace them if they are damaged or rusted. If they’re a safety issue, pick another car.
  
• Hoods and trunks may be secured with either/or 4 pieces of chain or #9 wire (max 3ft length) or four ½” bolts with max 1” washer. Chain, wire, or bolts must go through sheet metal only, not around/through frame.
  
• A 6” max outer diameter washer may be welded onto panels for chain/wire to go through so sheet metal doesn’t tear.
  
• Doors must be secured by welding, chain, or wire. There is no limit to the amount of wire or chain used to secure doors. Chain/wire must go from the door to the nearest body panel, not to the roof or some part on the other side of the car. Use only one method of securing doors.
  
• A seat bar (max 5” outer diameter) is mandatory. It must be positioned up against the driver’s seat, running from the left to right and must be securely welded into place. An additional bar may be positioned no more than 18” behind the driver’s seat. Complete cages are allowed and recommended. An optional pipe may also be put in the front, where the dashboard was located, in between the front door posts. A 6” by 6” plate at the end of the pipe may be welded to the interior of the car behind the seat and the bars must be welded to these plates. You may connect the bar behind the seat and the dash bar with a bar on both the drivers and passenger side to make a 4 point box style cage. VERTICAL DOWN TUBES MAY BE ADDED, MAXIMUM OF 4 (to the floor sheet metal only). NO CAGE MATERIALS MAY BE CONNECTED TO THE FRAME. NO FORM OF KICKER IS ALLOWED.
  
• NO HALO BARS.
  
• Frames may NOT be shortened or tilted.
• Minimal pre-bending of rear body/frame is allowed, must have an access to inspect. TUCKING TRUNKS IS ALLOWED.
  
• NO REPAIRING OF DAMAGED FRAMES
  
• Bumpers may be lightly welded. Tubes may NOT be fully collapsed; some tube must be visible – do not weld your bumper to the frame. Only 80’s or newer bumpers/shock canisters maybe used.
  
• You may not weld your trunk shut
  

Interior

• Remove all the carpet and plastic trim, including padding under the carpet and headliner. Removal of anything that can burn (not including seats and seat belts) is highly recommended. Removal of the dashboard is optional.
  
• Padding of driver door and driver’s door safety bar is recommended.
  
• All drivers’ compartments must be clean of any trash, broken glass or anything that could be a projectile.
  
  • Front seats must be reinforced by installing a seat bar behind and up against the front seat. Seat bars must be welded in place, from the left to the right side of the car. This bar is to be used to keep the seat from collapsing and injuring the driver. It must not be used to overly strengthen the vehicle. It is not to be fastened to the frame of a car in the nostalgia & mini truck classes
    

Engine, Transmission, and Rear Differential

• You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine within reason. Holes in fire wall must have a cover to protect driver from fluid spray or fire flash. NO EXCEPTIONS!
  
• You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times during the event.
  
• No starting fluid will be allowed.
  
• There must be 12x12 inch opening cut in hood in case of a fire
  
• Any exhaust header may be used, and may exit hood, as long as it points away from driver compartment.
  
• Home made transmission cross members, shifters and shifter linkage, and transmission mounts are okay, but must not strengthen the frame.
  
• Welded or spooled rear ends are allowed.
  
• No welded rims
  
• Valve stem protectors are okay
  
• Wheel weights must be removed.
  

Engine, Transmission, and Rear Differential Continued:

• Engines may be swapped, however, they must match manufacturer of vehicle (GM in a GM, Ford in a Ford, and Mopar in a Mopar). Engines must be completely stock and will be started and inspected by DhR crew. NO PERFORMANCE/SPECIALTY ENGINES ALLOWED.
  
• If you have swapped engines, on V-block motors, the #1 spark plug must be in line with or in front of the upper ball joint. On inline motors, the #2 spark plug must be in line with or in front of the upper ball joint.
  
• No transmission coolers, oil coolers, homemade motor mounts, or transmission mounts.
  
• Stock drive shafts only. No modifications allowed.
  
• Rear differentials must be stock to the vehicle you are running (Ford in Ford, GM in GM, and Mopar in Mopar). No 5:13 gears in an 82 Fleetwood. No truck or floater rear ends in any vehicle that didn’t come from the factory with one.
  

Wheels, Tires, Steering and Suspension

• Leaf springs must be of stock-type material and must taper largest to smallest (each leaf 4” smaller than the next largest – 2” per side), with only one main leaf. Leaf springs must be made of spring material, no sheet metal or flat stock. No welding of leafs. Max 9 leafs per side. No flat stacking your leafs. No leafs on top of main leaf.
  

• Leaf spring clamps may be replaced if defective. Home made spring clamps are allowed, but must not exceed 3 clamps in front of and 3 clamps behind axle per side. Home made spring clamps must not use material thicker than 1/8”, no wider than 1”, and use bolts no wider than 3/8” o.d.
  
• Do not double stack leafs. Do not invert leaf springs. Leaf springs must be mounted in OEM stock position, no moving shackles.
  
• ALL VEHICLES MUST HAVE WORKING BRAKES!
  

• All steering and suspension parts must be stock for the vehicle used. No 76 Impala control arms on an 84 Crown Vic. No welding or reinforcing existing parts. If it’s broken, replace it. If the suspension is worn and sagging, screw-in coil spring spacers are the only method allowed to raise suspension.
  
• Both ends of vehicle must have a working suspension (must move freely, factory amount of travel). No stiff, locked, or reinforced suspension.
  
• Stock steering shafts only. No modifications allowed.
  
• Tires must not exceed 16” wheel diameter and must be a stock passenger tire, snow tire, or a Mud Terrain SUV tire. No paddle, fork lift, or retread tires.
  
• No welded rims.
  
• Solid, and/or doubled tires are NOT allowed. Water filled and/or tubed tires are okay.
  

Electrical

• Only one automotive type battery may be used. It may be relocated to passenger seat floorboards or rear seat area, but must be mounted securely and covered by a non-flammable material.
  

Cooling System

• Only stock automotive radiators may be used. No radibarrels may be used in this class. Radiators must be mounted in stock location and must be flushed free of antifreeze prior to arriving at the derby.
  
• Electric fans are allowed.
  
• Any automotive radiator may be used, but must be mounted in stock position. NO HOME-MADE RADIATORS! Note: radibarrels allowed in Fair Class (not Nostalgia, Minis, or Nostalgia Truck) and Super Truck Class only.
  
• If you choose to compete without a radiator, the mechanical fan must be removed. No reserve tanks are allowed. Driver must compete with the water that is in the engine block only, or run dry block.
  
• Heater cores may remain in stock position, but removal is strongly recommended. No excessive radiator or heater hose lengths for additional coolant allowed
  
• No radiator frames.
  

Fuel Systems and Fire

• All vehicles must run on gasoline or diesel. No alcohol.
  
• Electric fuel pumps are allowed, but must have shut off switch in reach of driver.
  
• All fuel lines and fittings must be leak proof.
  
• Stock fuel tank MUST be removed. Fuel tanks must be mounted in the rear seat area of vehicle (in front of rear wheels on wagons), or use a fuel cell (metal/plastic marine boat tank may be used). Fuel cells and tanks must contain no more than 6.5 gallons of fuel. The fuel cell must be solidly mounted with bolts/threaded rod, metal strapping, or seat belts (no bungee cords, chains, or rope). DO NOT WELD FUEL TANK TO FLOOR (yes, I’ve see someone try it…) DhR officials’ decision is final.
  
• Rubber fuel lines must be sleeved with a puncture resistant material (plastic or metal) and secured away from sharp edges, doors and hood, and must run inside car. Hi-pressure rubber lines with compression fittings are also allowed.
  
• Any vehicle suffering a fire will be subject to re-inspection. Yes, we know the difference between an exhaust fire and a genuine accidental blaze.